Marrakech, Uzès & the beautiful Basque Country

Changes are afoot! Practical changes. I have decided to simplify my life and do less travelling. I've been thinking about this for years and wondering how I could organise it because my lifestyle is inextricably linked to my work. If one changed, the other had to so this is the solution I have come up with. I have decided to swap my French/NZ life around so that I will rent in France and own in NZ. I am also reducing my tours for 2026 and the first casualty is Marrakech. The unique lodge where we stay in the countryside in Marrakech is being sold and for me, there is nothing to replace the specialness of that place and my relationship with the owner, Florence. I've been rocking the Casbah in Morocco for twenty years and written two books about it so I will miss the wild and crazy side to life there. I'll miss working with my friends and colleagues, especially Adriano who contributed so much to the tours. I had a wonderful group in Marrakech this year so we went out with a bang! This September will also be my last Portugal tour... and we have ONE place left. Could the universe be telling you something?!

The Uzès tour this year was enchanting, the weather perfect and the gastronomads funny and joyful. Occitania is dry, old, staunch, influenced by its closeness to Spain and so far not completely inundated with tourism. Here the colours are not the cornflower blues and searing yellows of Provence but more muted – washed out sage, dove grey, biscuit and pale blue. The group loved our chic hotel in the centre of town, loved shopping and loved the food markets, so exceptional and outrageous here in the South of France... just bursting with colour, freshness, variety, white asparagus, courgette flowers, fresh white coco beans, sweet local lamb, acres of olives, seas of olive oil and an unlimited flow of light, bold, smooth local wines.

We had cooking classes where we learned how to break down an artichoke (apparently never again), how to make a sunshine tart and how to make a more textured cherry clafoutis by adding almond powder. We also visited other great old Roman cities nearby like Nimes and St-Remy-de-Provence, had a farm lunch of home slaughtered goat and cheese from said goat and sang the night away at the last night bash at my place. I think, all in all, my group just liked the friendly, relaxed, witty Southern French who made them feel so welcome. I'll be doing it all again next year, 5 – 11 June 2026. Full details are HERE.

I've just finished the brilliant Basque tour which is always emotional and warm hearted just like the Basques themselves. It is such a unique culture, not really Spanish, not really French and staunchly Basque which means a very old, hard to speak language, lots of meat, cheese and fish and lots of singing! They sing all the time, especially the male choirs. We had one of these choirs perform for us at our famous last night bash. They were all ex-rugby players who decided to just keep singing together. A Basque choir sounds a bit like a Welsh choir – four part harmony, singing in what might be a Celtic language, moving and rousing. While they were gracing us with their serene tones we enjoyed an elaborate dinner at one star Ithurria restaurant in the countryside. We sang to the choir and all the way home in the bus. No comment on our tunefulness or lack there of.

The tour starts in the chic city of San Sebastian where we drink Rioja wines and eat endless variations of pintxos (tapas) – Gilda (little green peppers, olives and anchovy), foie gras, scallops in sauce, grilled octopus, grilled chorizo, anchovies with piquillo peppers. As we wandered around the pintxos bars we also drank lots of txakoli – sparkling Basque wine. We also drank sherry and ate lots of the best cured ham in the world – Bellota Iberico... nutty, fatty, salty, complex. We also had a VERY hands on fish cooking class and believe me there's nothing we don't know about the insides of octopus, crab, sardines, tuna and turbot. We then headed to the pretty fishing town of St-Jean-de-Luz and threw ourselves into shopping for anything with stripes – tablecloths, espadrilles, clothes, towels. We had a chocolate workshop, devoured spit-roasted lamb in a cave and visited the village of Espelette for the famous ped peppers. If you want a happy life, follow the Basques and have your first little glass of white wine and plate of oysters at the bar in the market at 11am then shop for ham, cheese, tarts, salad, tomatoes and fresh sardines, take it all back to a friends house and eat it on the lawn. Dates for next year are 20 – 26 June. Full details HERE.

Tours in 2025

It's not too late to escape the winter blues and join us for an exotic adventure in Europe in September. I'm dreaming of seafood and very good wine in Southern Italy and Southern Portugal. I have a thing about southern corners of countries – they're just more sexy and interesting than other places. 

Puglia  – 31 August – 6 September 2025 – 1 place left!
Portugal – 14 – 20 September 2025 – 1 places left!

Tours in 2026

This is the line up for next year, small (er) but perfectly formed!
 India fashion and textile tour 1– 10 March 2026 – full details HEREUzès gastronomic tour 5 – 11 June 2026 – full details HEREBasque Country gastronomic tour 20 – 26 June 2026 – full details HERE
Puglia gastronomic tour 29 June – 5 July 2026 – full details HERE

The other HUGE news is that my Uzès house is for sale. Whilst it'll be hard not to live in one of the most beautiful art towns in the South of France, the time has come. Just 150 meters from the Place aux Herbs, my light filled townhouse will be sold furnished. Designed over three floors, it has been lovingly renovated with high-end materials and even has a magnificent Louis XIV fireplace. On the ground floor there is a large dining room and professional kitchen. The first floor is a large living room and top floor has a master suite opening onto a covered terrace. And of course there is aircon. Check out the listing HERE

I'm lying low in Uzès drinking Pastis, eating the Iberico ham I bought in the Basque Country and gossiping in cafés with my friends.  My favourite bar at the top of my street has been sold, bought and refurbished. It used to be full of die hard locals which is why we all loved it. I wondered what would happen when it reopened, all shiny and tasteful but guess what? All the die hards came back and it's as if nothing happened! If you're in the area pop in to one of my market cooking classes – full of sun-drenched provencale food, endless rosé and helpful household hints. Details HERE.